[Gray whale]
We stopped paddling for a while and just quietly observed the whales around us. They kept coming closer and closer to us!

Day 8

We left our beautiful Escalante site at 7:15am, and paddled from the river to the sea after breaking through the surf. Calm water, no wind, and good visibility as we paddled south down the Hesquiat Peninsula. Six miles into the day Al spots our first gray whale! Anyone who's seen wild whales can quickly develop a mild obsession. I guess it's their immensity that gives these great leviathans such spellbinding power, and I've been hooked since my first kayaking encounter with Orcas back in 1997. From late February until May an estimated 21,000 Pacific gray whales parade north up Vancouver Island's coast en route to the Gulf of Alaska. The spurts of willowy mist became more frequent, and soon they were surfacing to the right and left of us. All of a sudden a gray surfaced right between Al, and me who were only 30 feet apart. It bubbled up to the surface like a submarine, then submerged, turned, and swam directly under me! Time froze as I watched the gray black, barnacled creature pass under my kayak; what a heart stopper! We saw a total of 7 whales, snapped a few pictures, and continued on our way with big smiles and laughter.

[Whales all around]
This was the closest I have ever been to a huge whale!

We rounded Estevan Point, 12 miles into the day, and continued east around the Hesquiat Peninsula. Up ahead we noticed a large group of what initially looked like sea lions; torsos out of the water, grouped together in formation, and moving towards us. I readied my camera, and as our paths crossed we were excited to see 150 or more sea otters. I took a picture seconds before they retreated in a well-synchronized jump, dive, turn and swim maneuver.

We crossed Hesquiat Harbor, 8.4 miles, and we're wide eyed upon our arrival at this spectacular section of coast. The high rocky cliffs were perfectly landscaped with lush overhanging foliage, and along the base of this impressive stretch were a series of gigantic sea caves.

[Hot springs]
After 30 miles of paddling our tired bodies deserved some relaxation in the hot springs.

We were in awe as we continued our paddle, and 3 Dahl Porpoises entertain us as we rounded Barney Rocks and headed north up Hot Springs Cove. Out of nowhere, float planes were landing, charter boats were zooming by, and we had entered the LA freeway of the west coast; what a change from the isolated wilderness we'd become accustomed to over the past 8 days of our journey. We tied up our kayaks south of the government dock and followed the crowd, like cattle, along a winding boardwalk that led to the springs. It all starts with a very hot waterfall that accumulates in various rocky pools. Each natural pool is cooler, the closer it is to the sea, and boy did it feel good! I laid down in the second little rocky pool, almost unbearable temperature, and didn't move for ten minutes. I then tip toed my way past the lounging adults and kids and sat in the ocean as the waves surged in and out; very nice!

Al and I made the 20-minute hike down the boardwalk, paddled out of the cove, and headed 2 miles southeast to a beautiful campsite at Half-moon Beach. We ate a huge dinner, did a little reading, and then went to bed for a much needed night of rest and recovery. Whales, 32.3 miles of paddling, otters, Dahl Porpoises, spectacular coastline, and hot springs; what a day!

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GRAY WHALE (Eschrichtius robustus): The only member of the family Eschrichtiidae, the gray whale is a mysticete, or baleen whale. It is a "coastal" whale that migrates along the North American Pacific Coast between arctic seas and the lagoons of Baja California, Mexico. Frequently visible from shore, gray whales provide a unique opportunity for land and boat observation, and commercial whalewatching has become a major industry along its migration route. Visitors to the calving and breeding lagoons sometimes encounter the phenomenon of the "friendlies"; gray whales that closely approach small boats and allow themselves to be touched by humans.

The gray whale received its name from the gray patches and white mottling on its dark skin. On the skin are many scratches, scattered patches of white barnacles, and orange whale lice. Newborn calves are dark gray to black, although some may have distinctive white markings.

Gray whales feed on small crustaceans such as amphipods, and tube worms found in bottom sediments. They feed primarily during the summer months of long daylight hours in the cold Arctic waters of the Bering and Chukchi seas. As a baleen whale, it has a series of 130-180 fringed overlapping plates hanging from each side of the upper jaw, where teeth might otherwise be located. These plates consist of a fingernail-like material called keratin that frays out into fine hairs on the ends inside the mouth next to the tongue. The plates are off-white and about 2-10 inches (5-25 cm) in length. To feed a whale dives to the bottom, rolls on its side and draws bottom sediments and waters into its mouth. As it closes its mouth water and sediments are expelled through the baleen plates, which trap the food on the inside near the tongue to be swallowed.

Gray whales reach sexual maturity at 5-11 years of age, or when they reach 36-39 feet in length. Gestation is 12-13 months. The calf weighs 1,100-1,500 pounds and is about 15 feet at birth. Calves nurse 7-8 months on milk that is 53% fat (human milk is 2% fat). Females bear a single calf, at intervals of 2 or more years. Courtship and mating behavior are complex, and frequently involve 3 or more whales of mixed sexes. Mating and calving both occur primarily in the lagoons of Baja California, Mexico, although both have been observed during the migration.

Gray whales inhabit shallow coastal waters of the eastern North Pacific. The gray whale makes one of the longest of all mammalian migrations, averaging 10,000-14,000 miles round trip. In October, the whales begin to leave their feeding grounds in the Bering and Chukchi Seas and head south for their mating and calving lagoons in Baja California, Mexico. The southward journey takes 2-3 months. The whales remain in the lagoons for 2-3 months, allowing the calves to build up a thick layer of blubber to sustain them during the northward migration and keep them warm in the colder waters. The return trip north takes another 2-3 months. Mothers and calves travel very near shore on the northbound migration. There are some individual gray whales that are found year round in the Straits of Juan de Fuca between the State of Washington and Vancouver Island, Canada and possibly off the central California coast. American Cetacean Society