Day 9

No hurry getting on the water this morning due to our much-needed rest, and the thick fog that blanketed the crescent shaped sandy shores of Half-moon Beach. Paddled off in to what appeared to be clearing skies, around 10:30 am, and headed for Rafael Point. As we exited the protection of the bay we were snapped to attention by sustained 15-mph southeast winds and building seas. The paddling was exciting and arduous as we fought the headwind and powered through the turbulent white-capped water. We surf landed on a small beach an hour and a half later, after traveling 4 miles, ate, listened to the weather report, and took a half hour break before continuing on towards the heart of beautiful Clayoquot Sound.

Home to ancient rainforests and white sand beaches, Clayoquot Sound is a polished gem on the rugged West Coast. Once known only for its stunning scenery, whales and hot springs, the area gained great attention in the summer or 1993. Over 12,000 people attended the Clayoquot Sound Peace Camp that summer to protest the government's decision to open up 62 percent of the sound to clear cut logging. The civil protest, largest in Canadian history, led to the arrest of 932 people, and voiced a clear message that the temperate rainforests of Clayoquot would not be taken without a fight.

The conditions fortunately calmed down during our half-hour break, and we made good progress as we passed Rafael Point, Siwash Cove, and Cow Bay. Just prior to reaching Cow Bay we noticed tour boats observing the great Pacific gray whale. We watched and listened as the beautiful creatures breathed and spouted their misty breath high in to the air, and as they moved on to the north, we continued south. After crossing Cow Bay we headed for the gorgeous white sandy beaches of Bartlett Island, where we stopped briefly to wade in the shallow water, and snap a few shots of the tropical-like lagoons. We continued southeast across Brabant Channel, and paddled towards the south end of Vargas Island's Ahous Bay. We had hoped to replenish our dwindling water supply at a creek indicated on our map, but upon arriving found it to be dry.

Luckily we met Bonnie, a kayak guide who runs Rainforest Kayaking out of Tofino. She was out with clients on a four-day circumnavigation of Vargas Island, and graciously offered us 4 liters of her precious liquid. Al and I raced out of Ahous Bay, continued down the west side of Vargas, and landed at a nice long sandy beach just as the sun began to set. We had traveled 25 miles, and we're rewarded with a gorgeous sunset!