[Decaying totem pole]
A decaying totem pole was the only sign of an old Ahousaht village that stood here two hundred years ago.
The Cuttle Islands is a group of small islands, just south of the Acous Peninsula, where an Ahousaht village once stood. From our campsite on one of the islands, it was a short paddle over to the former village site, but to our disappointment, the longhouses that once stood there have completely disappeared. We only found one decaying totem pole lying on the ground. Adjacent to the Acous Peninsula is Battle Bay, where the Ahousaht once fought a decisive battle with the Otsosaht people. So many Otsosaht perished that the tribe became nearly extinct. Alan D. MacMillan, the author "Since the Time of the Transformers, the Ancient Heritage of the Nuu-chah-nulth, Ditidaht and Makah", writes: "Warfare also played a major role... Often hostilities were driven by a desire to appropriate the territorial holdings of another group, particularly if these contained such vital economic resources as rivers with salmon runs. The conquerors killed or enslaved the area's occupants and took possession of the territory. A well-documented example of such wars of conquest is the expansion of the Ahousaht, formerly restricted to a small area of the outer coast, who, in the early nineteenth century, nearly exterminated the Otsosaht and absorbed their territory along with its rich salmon streams."



[Camp on Thornton Is]
We have crossed over 4 miles of open water from Kyoquot village to camp on isolated Thornton Island

Day 4

Out of camp around 9 am this morning, checked out an old decaying totem at an (IR) Indian Reserve site, then headed down the coast to Kyuquot Sound. Couldn't find any fresh water to bathe in along the way, so I stopped at a shallow, warm, sea filled lagoon as Al paddled off to Kyuquot in hope of reaching his wife in Port Angeles via cell phone. I paddled up to the dock an hour later and Al informed me that Jessica had made the journey home to Port Angeles without incident, and that all was well.

Fewer than 5,000 people live in the northwest quadrant of Vancouver Island, with about 300 in the Kyuquot area. The village is one of the only communities on Vancouver Islands 250 mile long outer coast that remains isolated and without road access. We filled up our water bags, and then paddled 4.5 miles west of Kyuquot to Thornton Island, where we hiked, checked out a funky little cabin set in the cliffs, cooked up some coos-coos and chicken, and then called it a day; we had paddled 19 miles.

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