A decaying totem pole was the only
sign of an old Ahousaht village that stood here two hundred years ago.
| The Cuttle Islands
is a group of small islands, just south of the Acous Peninsula, where an Ahousaht village once
stood. From our campsite on one of the islands, it was a short paddle over to the former village
site, but to our disappointment, the longhouses that once stood there have completely disappeared.
We only found one decaying totem pole lying on the ground. Adjacent to the Acous Peninsula is
Battle Bay, where the Ahousaht once fought a decisive battle with the Otsosaht people. So many
Otsosaht perished that the tribe became nearly extinct. Alan D. MacMillan, the author
"Since the Time of the Transformers, the Ancient Heritage of the Nuu-chah-nulth, Ditidaht and
Makah", writes: "Warfare also played a major role... Often hostilities were driven by a desire
to appropriate the territorial holdings of another group, particularly if these contained such vital
economic resources as rivers with salmon runs. The conquerors killed or enslaved the area's occupants
and took possession of the territory. A well-documented example of such wars of conquest
is the expansion of the Ahousaht, formerly restricted to a small area of the outer coast, who, in
the early nineteenth century, nearly exterminated the Otsosaht and absorbed their territory along
with its rich salmon streams."
|
We have crossed over 4 miles of open water from Kyoquot village to camp on
isolated Thornton Island
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Day 4
Out of camp around 9 am this morning, checked out an old decaying totem at an (IR) Indian
Reserve site, then headed down the coast to Kyuquot Sound. Couldn't find any fresh water to
bathe in along the way, so I stopped at a shallow, warm, sea filled lagoon as Al paddled off
to Kyuquot in hope of reaching his wife in Port Angeles via cell phone. I paddled up to the
dock an hour later and Al informed me that Jessica had made the journey home to Port Angeles
without incident, and that all was well.
Fewer than 5,000 people live in the northwest quadrant of Vancouver Island, with about 300
in the Kyuquot area. The village is one of the only communities on Vancouver Islands 250 mile
long outer coast that remains isolated and without road access. We filled up our water bags,
and then paddled 4.5 miles west of Kyuquot to
Thornton Island, where we hiked, checked out a funky
little cabin set in the cliffs, cooked up some coos-coos and chicken, and then called it a day;
we had paddled 19 miles.